Mer de Glace, the second-largest glacier in Europe, flows down a valley running through les Aiguilles de Chamonix (viewed here from a different side than elsewhere in this series). You can reach Mer de Glace a couple ways. We chose the cog railway (Gare du Montenvers), which takes about 25 minutes from Chamonix. At the glacier, you'll find a hotel, a restaurant/gift shop, and trails leading off here and there. There also is an ice cave, but it’s closed in winter.

The weather was at least as nasty as it looks: brutal winds, deep snow and cold-cold. I actually like extreme conditions, but on this day, it was difficult even to keep my camera still (and dry). More important, it was marginally dangerous to approach the glacier. So we didn't. Most people who rode the train with us did no more than wait in the comfort of the coffee shop until the next train could take them back to Chamonix. John and I were among the very few souls who ventured out at all. I believe we deserve bonus points for out death-defying effort.